We made it home about an hour earlier than expected and had no issues at customs. It helps travelling with carry-on only since you do not have to wait the hour to finally see your luggage.
Looking back at the trip, we sure did a lot and also learned an interesting fact …
What can be counted?
22 Nights away
19 Cities and Towns
56 Transports, which includes the normal like planes, trains and buses, and also a golf cart and a gondola.
355,404 Steps, which average to 16,924 per day
150 Miles walked, average of 7.14 per day
4,625 Photos kept (more were taken!)
What can NOT be counted?
New experiences in new places
All the food and drinks. It was a ‘Culinary Journey’ after all!
Meeting new people and making new friends
Best of all, celebrating a birthday with friends old and new from all over.
More interesting, what did we learn?
We ate and drank from Italy through the south of France all the way to Spain. All these countries are on the Mediterranean Sea. Conclusion we got to after we got on the scale at home: THE MEDITERRANEAN DIET DOES NOT WORK! (At some point in the trip, even my phone’s Face-ID stopped recognizing me!)
Thank you to each and everyone that made this such a great celebration trip.
“Live the life you’ll always remember!”
The were very happy to have the ‘pack’ all back together again.
Our last morning in Paris before we leave back to our daily grind.
We re-packed all the bags and since our plane only leaves late in the afternoon, decided to stroll Paris early in the morning, and then have a brunch with a good friend of ours to celebrate her birthday. It was a most delightful morning watching the city slowly wake up.
After breakfast we had a glass of wine at a small Parisienne Brasserie and decided to leave for the airport a little early since we still need to get through that process and like to relax before we board.
Little did we know… ANOTHER ADVENTURE AWAITED US!
Normally, the easiest and fastest way to the airport is by train. Very simple, you get on the train in the center of Paris, and a short time later that train drops you inside the airport which is about 20 miles away.
Not today.
The train traveled one stop only, to the main train station in Paris and there the line ended. They moved us to another train that also only traveled one stop and unloaded us all.
From here they are going to bus everybody to the airport.
Imagine, if you will, hundreds of very confused people with giant suitcases, having to walk a block or two and then getting crammed into a bus. Do not forget about the tension and stress of all these people that left for the airport at the last minute to make their flights, not anticipating all this extra time to load a bus, deal with traffic on the roads, and then unload a bus. The atmosphere was electric, not in a good way.
We left early enough so we made it through everything, relaxed in the lounge with a drink, and then boarded our plane in time. It also helped having only carry-on luggage.
Until next time, Europe!
Early morning Paris in spring.The Brasserie CatLooks like a good place to have breakfast?It was!
Church of Saint-Eustache
In the heart of Paris stands the Gothic silhouette of the Church of Saint-Eustache, It is the successor to the first parish church built in the thirteenth century, which was altered and then completely rebuilt between 1532 and 1637. From this pivotal period in the history of religious architecture, the building retains its Gothic vaults with intersecting ribs, forming a solid framework reinforced externally by buttresses. The height is impressive, reaching 33.50m under the vaults.
The originality of the building lies in its Renaissance-style decorative language: Corinthian capitals, foliage, and masks are elegantly juxtaposed with Gothic architecture. The western facade underwent rebuilding in the classical style from 1754 until the French Revolution halted construction, which left the south tower unfinished. Numerous painted and sculpted masterpieces, ranging from the fourteenth to the twenty-first century, enrich the building of the popular, lively shopping district of Les Halles.
There was a small service that started when we entered. The acoustics in that space was beautiful.
Reflections of old Paris architecture on new Paris architecture.The river SeineAnother Hector Guimard designed Art Nouveau metro stations.
Goodbye Europe, it is not Au Revoir, it is definitely À bientôt. (Or the same sentiment in all four languages we had to learn to speak over the last three weeks.)
We traveled to Paris on the high-speed TGV from Barcelona and best of all, there were dogs on the train.
After checking in to our hotel, we walked around for a while, bought some fancy chocolate and had a glass of wine before dinner.
Dinner was the quintessential cherry-on-top of a great culinary birthday journey.
We were able to get last minute reservations on a front window table in the restaurant in the Eiffel Tower.
Neither one of us has ever been up the tower before, and to go up and then have an amazing dinner at the best table in the restaurant was very special. The view was spectacular.
After dinner we walked up to the Trocadero to see the hourly flickering of the tower.
It was a late and fantastic night.
High speed train through the French countryside.
Welcome to Paris.Fun view from the hotel room. The courtyard was quiet.Our favorite street.Last bougie chocolate buy to be able to pack it all.Sneakies before dinner.She is such a beauty at night.
Up we go!
Our restaurant for tonight.The view from our window table.The ‘second floor’ was surpisingly empty.
The last time we were in Paris this was covered in volleyball fields. (See the 2024 Some Summer Games journal)
Best view of the tower with perfect timing.
The way in to the Metro is so charming and French.The way out, not so much.
We ventured out to Montserrat today on a tour that also included a lunch and a wine tasting.
Montserrat is beautiful and the views from up there are stunning. We did not have enough time do some of the hikes further up, but the panoramas are still spectacular.
This was followed by a three course lunch at a winery that has been operational since the 10th century.
The land of the farm was originally awarded by the king to a potter as a reward. You know what else clay soil is good for besides pottery? Wine!
Today they only do fully organic wines and it was a really interesting tasting.
Of course we were going out to dinner after all of that. We are professionals by now.
At LOKAL we had a selection of tapas that included some really good steak, and interesting oxtail wheels.
Good morning, Barcelona!
Montserrat Monastery is a stunning 11th-century Benedictine abbey perched on a jagged mountain range 59 km northwest of Barcelona, Spain, known as a major pilgrimage site and home to the revered 12th-century Black Madonna statue.
They told us repeatedly that the first bishop of Monserrat was NOT an extraterrestrial. Sure.
The front of the church.The chapel inside.The Black Madonna that the pilgrims travel to touch.Candle grotto.
They have a little produce market with products from the surrounding area. We got a ‘cone of cheese.’
Entry to the art museum under the plaza.
There range of artwork was quite impressive with Picasso, Dali, Monet, Sargent, Miro and a lot of other famous artists represented.
This Caravaggio from 1605, Penitent Saint Jerome, is their most famous.
The exit of the museum is art about people looking at the art.One last view of Catalania from the Serrated Mountains.
Oller del Mas was established in 946. We are having a (late) lunch with wine, followed by a wine tasting.
The first of the three courses was a really interesting winter vegetable soup.
All the wines on the farm are organic.A view of Montserrat (The Serrated Mountains) from the tower.Flamed steak at Lokal.Oxtail wheels.Good night, Barcelona, we’ll be back.
To paraphrase Montserrat Caballè and Freddy Mercury’s duet:
I had this perfect dream This dream was me and you I want all the world to see A miracle sensation My guide and inspiration Now my dream is slowly coming true
The wind is a gentle breeze The bells are ringing out They’re calling us together Guiding us forever Wish my dream would never go away
It was the first time that we met Barcelona how can I forget The moment that I stepped into the city You took my breath away And if God willing We will meet again someday
We left Valencia early morning and took the train to Barcelona.
We made it in time to walk around a little bit before we started our evening food tour of Barcelona.
Like the previous one, it was a great mix of food and drinks, history and the history of the foods and restaurants. We had a great time.
Valencia, in my dreams it always seems I hear you softly call to me Valencia, where the orange trees forever Send the breeze beside the sea Valencia, in my arms I hold your charms Beneath the blossoms high above … – Traditional Song
Any civilized breakfast on a train should include Cava. Barcelona Gothic Quarter. One of the many local markets in the city.Street Picasso?Roman ruins in the old town. First tasting had two options, with wine. Mushrooms with Ibarian Ham.Fried eggplant with honey.An inbetween course tasting of nuts before the second stop.Pinchos with Anchovies – two versions.
The church dedicated to brothels and their workers was built with community money since the ‘Church’ did not want to pay for that kind of church.
When it burned down the community was not able to raise all the funds to rebuild it, so the Barcelona Football (Soccer) club paid for it.
Inside the church there is a stained glass window with their flag as a way to show their appreciation.
La Bomba de la Barcelonetta. One of the two Paellas we had. The other was seafood.Dessert was Buñuelos. Street scenes walking back after all the food.
We walked back through the town since we wanted to see the ‘Placing of the Flowers’
It is quite the event. The parade streets are packed with people watching and cheering.
The neighborhoods show up in full costume, from newborns to great-grandparents and proudly walk, followed by their own band, into the square and hand the flowers over to the workers on the statue.
They start filling in the pattern from the top. We will not be in town long enough to see the final design.
The streets are filled with beautiful costumes either waiting for their turn to add their flowers, or more relaxed people that are done with their parade.
It is like the whole town is filled to the brim with costumes and colors.
And firecrackers.
Valencia Train Station
It is St. Patrick’s Day after all, so we had to stop at one of the Irish pubs for a Guiness.
The final destination of the parade.Filling in the flowers from the top.A random children’s Fallas being all judgy.
We started with a three mile walk down the beautiful Turia Park.
This is the bed of a diverted river that flowed through the city. After years of not being able to decide what to do with all that land, the city noticed that people used it as a park. It was then developed into this beautiful green ribbon that ‘flows’ through the city.
Our goal was to go see the architecture of Calatrava in the City of Arts and Sciences.
The soaring buildings were indeed breathtaking and there is no photo that can give you a sense of the soaring spaces. Truly elevating.
This setting has also been used in a lot of futuristic shows and movies.
Breakfast!When you bought your monument from Ikea but lost the instructions.
Gulliver Park is a playground where there is a giant statue of Gulliver. When kids play on him you see them as Lulliputans. Adorable.
Even the interiors are soaring and breathtaking.
Santiago Calatrava was born July 28, 1951, in Valencia, Spain and is a renowned architect, structural engineer, and sculptor known for futuristic, skeletal designs and soaring, white concrete structures.
Our day started with a nice early morning walk through the quiet streets with only the occasional firecracker going off. Last night was such a big party night in the city that there is no doubt people are sleeping in.
We learned the most fascinating facts during our tour and saw a selection of the more than three hundred Fallas. More than fascinating.
We spent the rest of the day in the city enjoying the atmosphere and watching people.
At some point, sitting in a narrow street near a corner, we regularly saw the dressed ladies followed by a band walk by and disappear again, just the echoes of the music remaining. It was such a unique experience.
The Fallas festival is a spectacular 5-day event in Valencia, Spain (March 15-19), celebrating Saint Joseph and the arrival of spring with massive satirical papier-mâché monuments called fallas. Neighborhoods display these intricate, costly structures before burning them in huge bonfires known as La Cremà on March 19th, symbolizing renewal.
It is a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity celebration that brings together community pride, artistry, and political satire, allowing for a symbolic cleansing through fire, where old energy is released to welcome spring.
The tradition dates back to the Middle Ages, when local carpenters burned old scraps of wood and debris to mark the end of winter on the feast day of their patron saint, Saint Joseph (March 19).
La Plantà (March 15-16): The act of erecting the 700+ massive fallas(monuments) and smaller ninots (puppets) overnight. Mascletà (March 1-19, 2 PM): A daily, loud, rhythmic firecracker exhibition in the Plaza del Ayuntamiento. La Ofrenda (March 17-18): An emotional flower offering to the Virgen de los Desamparados (Our Lady of the Forsaken), where a giant wooden statue of the Virgin is filled with floral bouquets by thousands of falleros. La Cremà (March 19): The grand finale, where the fallas are set on fire around midnight, starting with the children’s monuments.
Only one small piece of a falla, the ninot indultat (chosen by public vote), is saved from the fire, becoming a permanent exhibit in the city’s Fallas Museum.
The streets are filled with non-stop music, marching bands, food festivals featuring churros and buñuelos, and fireworks.
There was a lot of partying late into the night. Early morning on the way to our tour we saw a lot of people moving slow and wearing sunglasses.
The Central Market looks like a bright and airy cathedral.
Setting up the daily fireworks, which are just noise makers with colored dust. They are really really REALLY loud.
There is still a bullring and it is still being used for that.
The origin of Fallas as told by the guide.
Originally, the farm workers build stands with lanterns on for light during the winter. At the equinox they would then burn the lantern to symbolize going into spring and the longer (and brighter) days.
Later on they would add other burnable materials for a bigger fire.
At some point they started to get creative with it and make the piles into figures, mostly satirical.
The modern Fallas are all still very themed, and invariably includes satirical elements.
They still get burned!
Every area usually creates two Fallas, the big one and a little one for the children. The themes for the child Fallas are always educational.
The detail they can get with only paper mache and wood is incredible.
Some of these are up to 24 meters tall and can cost up to €600,000. And everything gets burned to ashes on the 19th of March.
There are also more ‘avant-garde’ and experimental Fallas. This one was about gentrification and on the last day, before burning, it will be filled with little blue people that symbolize out-of-towners.
A few of them even move.
These dresses are part of the tradition. Each one is unique.
A random mini-parade.
A blacksmith shop in the middle of town.
Starting tomorrow, on the 17th of March, there will be a two-day parade with everybody dressed up. The costumed people from each neighborhood will start at their Fallas and followed by a band, walk to this square and place flowers on this statue.
The design that the flowers make is different every year and kept a secret.
More and more people in the streets every day.
Having a snack in a little street cafe and suddenly there’s music.
Of course this then called for a rest period on the square watching people, with a glass of wine.
The train ride even included lunch and we made it to Valencia relaxing at high speed.
Valencia was loud and crowded. The city is in the middle of the Fallas festival and on Sunday evening is the official ‘raising of the fallas’ as well as the official opening.
Nearly every square in the city had a party going on. The kids throwing loud firecrackers everywhere made it all the more chaotic and loud.
It was great fun to be in it.
We stared in wonder at the amazing art of the Fallas.
Tomorrow we have a tour that will teach us all anout the festival and the Fallas themselves. Can’t wait!
Sunny breakfast roomJardines de Sabatini
The Sabatini Gardens are part of the Royal Palace in Madrid, Spain, and were opened to the public by King Juan Carlos I in 1978. They honour the name of Francesco Sabatini (1722–1797), an 18th-century Italian architect who designed the royal stables of the palace, which used to be located at the site, as well as other works at the palace.
Campo de Moro
Campo del Moro was designed in the 19th century under the rule of Queen Maria Cristina, thus creating a garden with a clear English style and following the romanticism of nature. One of the difficulties presented by the enormous garden was the difference in height with the Royal Palace, which is why it was not designed before. However, today it is one of the most beautiful landscapes of the Spanish capital.
Eating lunch as the Spanish countryside blurs by at 300km/hWelcome to ValenciaThe largest one is in the city square and is titled ‘Hope’
LANGOSTINO CON MAYONESA CALIENTE King prawn – garlic tom yum stir fry. Thai suquet – “de La Vera” paprika – coconut milk. Tempered “quisquillas” Crispy baby shrimp tortilla. Sautéed chili peppers oil – blue belly prawns. Steamed. Rolled Har Gau
MOLLETE AL VAPOR DE PINTADA Thai curry stew – guajillo chili – bergamot and mandarin-butter. Steamed bao. Knocked offf fermentation..
CENTOLLO WILLY FOG: DE DONOSTI A SINGAPORE Stewed spider crab “a la donostiarra” – sheep’s butter hollandaise gratinated with txakoli – Pimentón de la Vera. Steamed. Crystal.
PINK PUNK KAKIGORI Bergamot and lychee – whipped mascarpone cream, oolong tea and vanilla – sour cherry coulis – fairground marshmallows. Shaved ice.
PASTEL FLUIDO CHOCO BLANCO Y YEMAS Tom kha – cayenne – galangal.
We ended the night with drinks on the hotel’s rooftop bar.